The crowds left Glacier National Park in mid-September. By the end of the month, swarms of tourists become a trickle, and by early October, when the snow began to coat the mountains and the going-to-the-sun road was closed for the season, only the most daring souls passed through the park’s entrance.

 

Robert Conroy was one of those daring few.  He slipped into the park in the early morning hours,...